Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Dog food 101: What is in your dog's kibble?

Written by Anita Ledtje, Owner/Operator of For Other Living Things, a critter, people and earth friendly pet supply store in Sunnyvale, California.

You can’t beat dry dog food for convenience and cost. It certainly has taken over the market by storm. As many folks with family pups feed dry, it seems like a good place to start when talking about dog food. In this article we’ll touch upon where it came from, its rise to fame and how to pick a good one.

We have sailors and soldiers to thank for our furry friends favorite food. In 1860, James Spratt saw sailors tossing stale biscuits to dogs. Spratt added a few ingredients and formed a company called Spratt's Patent Limited. This started a niche market but prefab dog food really did not come to its own until WWII. Fresh and canned foods were scarce. Our soldiers needed a food they could carry out to the battlefield for our service dogs and one that would hold up without refrigeration. From there, large food manufacturers saw the burgeoning pet food industry as a good repository for the unusable leftovers (by-products) of their human food industries. These foods were baked, greasy and a little too quick to mold.

The first extruded foods came along in 1956. This resolved the greasy mold problem. Most of the dry foods on the market today are extruded. The extruders are modified breakfast cereal machines. However, these machines have their own requirements in order to work properly. They tend to get gummed up if there is anywhere close to 50% meat in the recipe. In order to keep the machines running, a binder must be added. This is very commonly wheat, corn or soy. These binders can sometimes cause their own problems like allergies and diabetes. Now-a-days you can find “grain free” dry foods. These “grain free” foods still need to contain a binder. Alternative binders can be ingredients like oatmeal, potato, tapioca, beans, or pea fiber. Note that there is no nutritional requirement for the binder on the part of the animal eating the food. (http://www.petfoodinstitute.org/?page=HistoryofPetFood)

As well as by-products and binders we can talk about food grade (people could eat them) vs feed grade (unfit for human consumption) ingredients. We can toss in chemical preservatives and artificial colors. Dry pet food can get fairly ugly. This can cause huge poops in the back yard, flatulence, oily or dry coat, excess shedding, rotten teeth and breath, kidney damage, diabetes, irritable bowel disease (IBD), allergies and a fearful, disagreeable or hyperactive pet.

Let’s look at two examples. (Keep in mind that the ingredients are listed by weight.)

Example 1:

Ground yellow corn, chicken by-product meal, corn gluten meal, whole wheat flour, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols (form of Vitamin E), rice flour, beef, soy flour, water, meat and bone meal, propylene glycol, sugar, tricalcium phosphate, phosphoric acid, salt, animal digest, potassium chloride, sorbic acid (a preservative), dried peas, dried carrots, calcium propionate (a preservative), choline chloride, L-Lysine monohydrochloride, Vitamin E supplement, zinc sulfate, Red 40, ferrous sulfate, manganese sulfate, niacin, Yellow 6, Yellow 5, Vitamin A supplement, Blue 2, calcium carbonate, copper sulfate, Vitamin B-12 supplement, brewers dried yeast, calcium pantothenate, thiamine mononitrate, garlic oil, pyridoxine hydrochloride, riboflavin supplement, Vitamin D-3 supplement, menadione sodium bisulfite complex (source of Vitamin K activity), calcium iodate, folic acid, biotin, sodium selenite.
(http://www.beneful.com/Products/Dry-Dog-Food/Original/)

This is Beneful Original dog food. The ingredients read a lot like a granola bar. Keep in mind that a dogs’ ability to digest certain things, like grain, does not exist. Grain is the first ingredient in the example above. Chicken by-product meal, (the ingredient 2) is a part of an animal that a human would not eat. Meal removes moisture from whole meat for processing and is not necessarily a bad thing. One does have to wonder, however, about the by-product part of that statement. Will your dog get much protein from beaks, feet and feathers? They are possible byproducts. Reading on; Whole wheat flour (more grain). The “animal fat” part is flavor (after processing and being mostly made of things the dog would not normally eat, they have to make it tasty). Since we’re talking about animal fat, what animal does the animal fat come from? (Not saying? Don’t know? Does it change from batch to batch?) Moving further down the list… here’s a good one: propylene glycol. Propylene glycol has a chemical structure very similar to anti freeze. It is poisonous to cats and illegal to put in their food. It has not been proven to be dangerous to dogs yet, so it is still allowed. This is known as “GRS” or Generally Regarded as Safe. Right after that is sugar… Seriously? Why? Most of what’s left is the vitamin packet except for the artificial coloring… Dogs don’t see colors like we do. I wonder if they (the dogs) really care what color the food is.

Example 2:

Lamb, lamb meal, sweet potatoes, potatoes, peas, canola oil, pea protein, roasted lamb, tomato pomace, natural flavor, salt, choline chloride, mixed tocopherols (a preservative), dried chicory root, taurine, tomatoes, blueberries, raspberries, yucca schidigera extract, dried Enterococcus faecium fermentation product, dried Lactobacillus acidophilus fermentation product, dried Lactobacillus casei fermentation product, dried Lactobacillus plantarum fermentation product, dried Trichoderma longibrachiatum fermentation extract, vitamin E supplement, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate (vitamin B1), manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, niacin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, riboflavin (vitamin B2), vitamin D supplement, folic acid.
(http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com/products/dogs/dry_food/sierra_mountain_canine_formula/)

This is Taste of the Wild Sierra Mountain Formula. So let’s follow this ingredient panel: Meat, meat, binders, more meat, some very nutritious fruits and veggies, vitamins, done.

Of the two examples, the second is preferable. The manufacturer has removed a lot of potentially problematic ingredients and still managed to produce a very palatable food. When choosing a dry food for your four footed friend, read the label and adhere to a few simple rules. This can get you a vastly superior product. These two products are formulated for dogs but if you have a cat you should adhere to the same rules for them as well. Here they are:

With few exceptions, the first ingredient should be meat or meat meal. A named meat. Be wary of words like meat or poultry. You want to see words like beef, lamb, chicken, etc.
The first or second ingredient can be a meal like chicken meal. That’s the meat with the water removed. If the first ingredient is a whole meat than, after processing, its correct position by weight on the ingredients panel would be about 3 positions to the right. Water is heavy and needs to be removed for extruding.
You should not see grains in the second, third and fourth positions because then, by weight, the product could be mostly grain.
It should not contain grain fractions (wheat middlings, peanut hulls, etc), no artificial colors or flavors and no chemical preservatives. If it contains words like BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin or propylene glycol don’t buy it.

Fortunately, we are becoming an educated public, demanding food for our companions that will give them the best shot at a long and comfortable life with as few vet bills as possible. The pet food industry is responding to our demands for quality dog food. The best place to start when selecting a new food, or checking out the food we’ve been feeding, is right on the package. Read your ingredients!

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My name is Tracey Lee Davis, and I'm a CPDT-KA, a graduate of the Academy for Dog Trainers, and a Certified Kennel Operator. Got a dog related question? Ask me at traceylee@siliconvalleydogs.com

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Helping your Dog Cope with Fireworks

Independence Day is right around the corner. Soon, people will be lighting firecrackers and other forms of 4th of July noisemakers (or it is already happening if you live in my neighborhood!). Many of us grew up loving fireworks and still enjoy a well put together display of dazzling brilliance. However, while we may like or at least tolerate the pops, cracks and bangs that go with this holiday, our pets usually find the whole experience terrifying.

When I used to work at the Longmont Humane Society in Colorado, we were always prepared for an influx of stray pets around the 4th of July. Without fail, we got cases where people went to go watch fireworks, and either brought their dog with them and the dog got away from the owner, or the owner didn't secure the dog at home and the dog broke out of their home and yards because they were scared of the fireworks. And this is not just a CO phenomenon. According to the San Jose Mercury News, “In the days just after July 4, 2013, 24 dogs were brought to the humane society in Milpitas as strays--a 140 percent increase over the average weekly intake of 10 dogs.” Keep in mind that fireworks can be incredibly upsetting for dogs, so make sure you are prepared for a potentially frightened pooch.

How to help your dog cope with Fireworks

Many dogs will hide when they hear fireworks, so make sure they have a place where they can go and feel safe. I highly recommend crate training for all dogs in general, and for crate trained dogs, their crate will be a haven for them when scared. Make sure their crate is accessible during noisy times, even if they do not use it on a regular basis.
If your dog is very scared by fireworks, I would strongly recommend trying a Thundershirt. Thundershirts are body wraps that work by applying constant, gentle pressure to the dog (or other pets!), which has been shown to “have a dramatic calming effect for over 80% of dogs.”
Another product that I would strongly recommend is a calming CD called “Through a Dog’s Ear.” This is music that has been scientifically arranged and recorded to specifically help calm your dog. I have used this music in the past, and have absolutely seen a positive effect on the dogs who could hear it!
There are a variety of pheromone products on the market, and I recommend giving Comfort Zone’s Dog Appeasing Pheromone a try for an anxious dog. DAP is a drug-free, odorless vapor that mimics a dog’s natural, soothing pheromones. I have seen this have positive impacts on stressed dogs in the past, so it is certainly worth trying out.
Another item to file under “can’t hurt, might help” is Rescue Remedy. Rescue Remedy is a combination of 5 Bach Flower Remedies to help your pet deal with stressful situations without drugs. It can be given orally, in water or food, or it can be applied directly to the gums, ears or paw pads.

If your dog has shown fear in regards to fireworks in the past, be proactive this year and try to make the holiday a little less stressful by employing some or all of these practices. If you know that your dog gets over-the-top stressed, consider talking to your vet about prescription medications that might better help your dog cope with the holiday.

Sunday, April 6, 2014

My Dog is Stressed. What Do I Do now?

Now that you have an idea of what a stressed dog looks like, it’s time to make sure you help your dog when he is showing you he is stressed.

Give your dog space

One of the very best things you can do is to put more distance between your dog and whatever is causing him stress. For some dogs, this is a couple of feet, for some it will be two blocks. Taking away the pressure of the situation will help your dog relax.

Understand what situations are stressful for your dog

In January, I went to both the Bay Area Pet Expo and The Golden Gate Kennel Club Dog Show, and was struck by the almost polar opposite behaviors of the dogs. Many dogs at the Expo were clearly overwhelmed by the sheer amount of STUFF happening: dogs, people, noises, smells, tight quarters and lots of activity. Unfortunately, a lot of owners seemed to be completely unaware that their dog(s) just didn’t want to be there and were completely over stimulated. In contrast, dogs at the dog show were also surrounded by STUFF but were completely at ease, and many seemed quite happy to be surrounded by everything. The difference is that the dogs at the show are in that sort of situation on a regular basis, and most likely grew up in that environment. For some of the dogs at the Expo, they may have NEVER been in that sort of situation before, and it was just too much without a history of prior (and positive!) experiences.

Training!

If you find that your dog is stressed, in general or in certain situations, one of the best things you can do is positive training. Whether with a private trainer to specifically address certain issues or in a general group class, teaching your dog new behaviors and skills will increase his confidence and help him to calm down. Training is an opportunity for you and your dog to have fun together, and for your dog to learn that you have everything under control, so he doesn’t need to worry as much in stressful situations.

A word of caution: not all trainers are created equal! You want to find a Certified Trainer who uses modern, science-based training methods. Using harsh, corrections-based training on a stressed dog will just result in a dog who is even more stressed.

A note about growling...

Does your dog growl when he is stressed? Great! Whatever you do, do not EVER punish your dog for growling. Growling is your dog’s way of stating that he is concerned about something. Dogs who are punished for growling may learn they shouldn’t growl, but then have less options for showing their concern. You hear about a dog who bit someone “out of nowhere” but I bet somewhere down the line, they used a growl to try to express that they were upset. For more info on growling and why it is good, read this great article by Nicole Wilde. The take home message from it is this: Growling is meant to avert aggression, not cause it.

Here are some resources for those interested in learning more about helping to alleviate stress in your dog:

On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas
The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell
Click to Calm by Emma Parsons

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

How Can I Tell if My Dog is Stressed?

I have spent a ton of time observing dog body language because it was a necessary skill in my day-to-day life. Because of this, I sometimes forget that it IS a skill that needs to be developed, and unfortunately, not all dog owners possess this skill. Not having this skill does not make one a bad person or a bad dog owner, however, we can do so much more for our dogs if we can understand when our dogs are stressed, or scared, or uncomfortable. The great news is that there are literally hundreds of resources out there about canine body language, so becoming an educated dog owner is absolutely possible without spending over a decade of your life working with dogs like I have. A few that I would recommend checking out are:

“Canine Body Language, A Photographic Guide” by Brenda Aloff
“The Language of Dogs” by Sarah Kalnajs (DVD)
“Off-Leash Dog Play” by Robin K. Bennett & Susan Briggs

Dogs are masters of reading body language, so the signals they use to communicate are generally quick and subtle. But with a little time and practice, you too can pick up on what your dog is trying to say.

Stress Signals in Dogs:

Lip Licking – I’m not talking about the “about to get a treat, licking your chops” lip-licking. Watch this clip for two examples.
Yawning – Again, this is not yawning when you know a dog is tired. It is in an out of context situation. Here you can see yawning and lip-licking combined.
Panting – Another out of context behavior. If your dog was not just engaged in something active and is panting like this, it is a sign of stress.
Excessive drooling – Also not when food is coming. I think we all know what drooling looks like.

Because not all signals that dogs give us are over the top, it can be difficult to notice if you aren’t looking for it. Look at this dog. He is not doing anything necessarily dramatic and his tail isn’t tucked, but he is clearly uncomfortable with the person filming him (or perhaps something the person is holding/wearing). Why do I say that? Because he is yawning, lip-licking, panting, and he is avoiding looking at the person. This dog may not be scared, but he is uncomfortable in this situation.

Pay attention to your dog. Learn to notice these little things that clue us in to how a dog is feeling. Dogs who are stressed can easily become dogs who are scared, and dogs who are scared can easily turn into dogs who bite. It is our responsibility as the owner/guardian/parent/companion (pick your favorite title) of our dogs to protect them from things that are scary, and recognizing these stress signals is an important first step!

Well great, now I see that my dog is stressed. What do I do now?! Keep your eyes peeled for my next blog, and I’ll answer that question! In the meantime, download this awesome app (illustrated by the fabulous Lili Chin who created the SVD logo) and start learning to “understand your dog’s signals like a pro!”